Pigmentation
Understanding pigmentation: why does it develop?
Melanin is the natural pigment responsible for the colour of our skin, hair and eyes. Produced by specialised cells called melanocytes, melanin plays an important protective role by absorbing and dispersing ultraviolet (UV) radiation, helping to reduce UV-related DNA damage within skin cells. However, this protection is not complete, and repeated UV exposure can still cause cellular damage and stimulate additional melanin production (Miot et al., 2022; Passeron et al., 2022).
Pigmentation develops when melanin production, distribution or removal becomes altered. This can occur in response to several triggers, including sun exposure, hormonal fluctuations, inflammation, skin injury and certain medications (Miot et al., 2022; Ko et al., 2023).
Hormonal and environmentally influenced pigmentation
Melasma is a common form of acquired pigmentation influenced by a combination of genetic susceptibility, hormonal factors and environmental exposure. Pregnancy, hormonal contraceptives and UV exposure can contribute to its development or worsening. Visible light can also play a role, particularly in individuals with darker skin phototypes (Miot et al., 2022; Passeron et al., 2022).
Other factors, including certain medications and inflammatory skin conditions, can influence melanocyte activity and contribute to uneven pigmentation. Although psychological stress is being investigated as a potential contributor to skin changes, its direct role in triggering melasma is not yet fully established.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs when inflammation or injury stimulates excess melanin production or alters its distribution within the skin.
Common triggers include acne, eczema, dermatitis, wounds, burns, aggressive cosmetic procedures and repeated friction. PIH can develop after the original inflammation has settled and may persist for months or even years.
It is particularly common in individuals with darker skin phototypes, although it can affect all skin tones (Anvery et al., 2022; Lyons et al., 2024).
Sun-induced pigmentation and age spots
Repeated exposure to ultraviolet radiation can stimulate melanocyte activity and contribute to the development of solar lentigines, commonly known as sun spots or age spots.
These flat, brown patches commonly appear on areas that receive frequent sun exposure, including the face, hands, arms, shoulders and décolletage. They are associated with cumulative UV exposure rather than simply the natural ageing process (Passeron et al., 2022; Ko et al., 2023).
Treating pigmentation: consistency is key
Managing pigmentation requires a consistent and individualised approach. Identifying the type of pigmentation, its underlying triggers and how deeply the pigment sits within the skin is essential when selecting appropriate treatment.
A tailored home-care routine can help regulate visible pigmentation and support ongoing skin health. Ingredients that target melanin production, such as selected tyrosinase inhibitors, may form part of a treatment plan. Professional treatments may also be considered depending on the pigmentation type and individual skin characteristics (Ko et al., 2023; Lyons et al., 2024).
Remodelling peels are one professional option for selected forms of pigmentation. Depending on the formulation and depth of treatment, chemical peels encourage controlled exfoliation and epidermal renewal, which can help improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and superficial pigmentation. However, they are not suitable for every pigmentation concern, and excessive inflammation can actually worsen pigmentation, particularly in more reactive or darker skin types (Anvery et al., 2022; Lyons et al., 2024).
Long-term management involves more than treating the visible pigment. Consistent sun protection, appropriate home skincare and addressing contributing factors such as hormonal influences and ongoing inflammation are important for maintaining results and reducing recurrence (Passeron et al., 2022; Ko et al., 2023).
Prevention remains one of the most important parts of pigmentation management. Daily broad-spectrum SPF, appropriate skincare and early management of inflammation can help reduce the development and worsening of unwanted pigmentation.
References
1. Miot, L. D. B., et al. (2022). Update on Melasma—Part I: Pathogenesis. Dermatology and Therapy, 12, 1967–1988.
2. Passeron, T., et al. (2022). Melasma: The need for tailored photoprotection to improve clinical outcomes. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 38, 515–521.
3. Anvery, N., Christensen, R. E., & Dirr, M. A. (2022). Management of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in skin of color: A short review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(5), 1837–1840.
4. Ko, D., Wang, R. F., Ozog, D., Lim, H. W., & Mohammad, T. F. (2023). Disorders of hyperpigmentation. Part II. Review of management and treatment options for hyperpigmentation. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 88(2), 291–320.
5. Lyons, A. B., et al. (2024). Treatment of Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Skin of Colour: A Systematic Review. Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 28(5), 473–480.
